Rue des Martyrs – Market street
If you’re looking for an authentic food shopping experience in the heart of Paris, follow us to Rue des Martyrs in the 9th arrondissement.
This street is said to have been named after Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris (250 AD), who had his head chopped off by some nasty pagan priests during the Roman Empire. According to the legend, Saint Denis managed to walk several miles through Paris, preaching while holding his head in his arms. He finally collapsed in the Saint Denis suburbs, a place that is now the site of a beautiful medieval Basilica.
Once known for its dodgy bars and restaurants, Rue des Martyrs, in the 9th district, is now a sophisticated destination for anyone in need of culinary inspiration. When I was growing up, this neighbourhood was still a little run down and dirty, although just as lively and popular as it is today. Rue des Martyrs is now one of the nicest streets in Paris, home to bohemian concept stores and culinary shops beloved by Parisian foodies. Starting from Notre Dame de Lorette, Rue des Martyrs leads up through Pigalle, all the way to Montmartre and Sacré-Coeur.
Let’s embark on a quest along Rue des Martyrs to create a grocery basket for the perfect Parisian dinner.
Start by buying some of artfully-displayed vegetables and fruits at the “Verger des Martyrs”, which you can use to create a tasty salad. Then walk a little further and you’ll begin to smell the delicious cheeses from “Chataignier”, where you’ll find an excellent selection of dairy products. In France, it’s common – if not mandatory – to serve cheese between the main dish and dessert – so don’t forget it!
As you continue to walk up the street, you’ll find a beautiful olive oil counter called “Première Pression à Froid”, which sells products imported directly from the south of France. It’s the perfect place to buy oil and vinegar to season your salad ingredients.
Next is “La Chambre aux Confitures”, where little jars of jam are arranged beautifully on the shelves, making the shop look more like a fine jewellery or perfume store. Jam might not be required for a dinner party, but this is a fantastic place to pick up jams for a brunch. Our favorite is “Poire-Chocolat”, a delicious spread that is truly to die for.
If your perfect dinner includes some meat, the Roger Billebault family has been in the trade since 1899. You’re sure to find the beef tongue or pig head that you’re looking for. If you’re more of a fish person, you can stop at “Au Bon Port”, which is just a few meters away.
As you continue up the street, you’ll find the pretty Patisserie from Sébastien Gaudard, an artist dedicated to bringing you the finest treats and marrons glacés (candied chestnuts). You won’t be able to resist going inside!
Next, you must stop at “Terra Corsa” for some Corsican cured meat (charcuterie) that will be perfect to serve with your apéritif. The charcuterie comes from Corsica, an island south of France where meat and cheese are revered to the level of religion.
Alternatively, you find more delicacies to nibble on at “Aux Saveurs d’Auvergne”, a store that rivals “Terra Corsa” for the title of charcuterie king.
Of course, you’ll also need to pick up some bread from the well-known Arnaud Delmontel Boulangerie, proud winner of the “2007 Best Baguette”. I’m actually munching on one of their baguette aux graines as I write this article. If you weren’t tempted earlier by the cakes from Mr. Gaudard, this shop is another excellent place to pick up some sweet desserts.
Last, but certainly not least, you’ll need to buy wine. Step inside “La Cave des Martyrs”, and ask the staff to help you pick a wine that compliments the contents of your grocery basket.
By now it’s probably about lunch time and you might be feeling a bit peckish. Fortunately, you’ll already be nearby “Au Pain Quotidien”, a franchise that offers a decent brunch/lunch option in a roomy, well-decorated interior.
Now that you’ve completed your quest for the perfect grocery basket, your dinner menu should look something like this:
A bottle of Lillet and charcuterie (sliced saucisson)
Goat cheese on toast with a touch of honey, with nuts and salad
Veal leg (jarret de veau), osso bucco style or cod (dos de cabillaud) cooked in tin foil with herbs
Vacherin, brie and comté with fig jam
Individual cakes (lemon tart, mille-feuille, éclair, etc…) to please all tastes
A couple bottles of Saint Estèphe
Monday Am - Monday Pm
- Sunday Pm
09:00 - 19:00
Address: Rue des Martyrs - 75009 - Paris